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THE BRITISH CURRY REVOLUTION by ELLA JAMESON

5/23/2014

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Dear Anglophiles: Please welcome today's guest writer, Ella Jameson!  Ella gives us the lowdown on a true gastronomical revolution: Britain's acquired taste for curry.


SPICE AND EASY DOES IT; THE BRITISH CURRY REVOLUTION
by
Ella Jameson

For most Brits, a good curry is part of a normal diet, as commonplace and British as a roast  dinner or beans on toast.  Chicken tikka masala has been described as a 'true British national dish’, and a stroll down almost any British high street will lead you at least one curry house.  But just how long have we had such an appetite for all things curry? 

Probably longer than you think.  The East India Company was set up in the 1600s so that  Britain could trade with India, and with it came an influx of foreign spices previously alien to the British palate.

The 1747 cookery book The Art of Cookery contained recipes for several curries and pilaus, curry powder was made commercially available in 1780, and by the 1800s, ginger, cayenne, turmeric, and cumin were store cupboard staples.  The first Indian restaurant opened in London in 1809, though despite Queen Victoria’s enthusiasm for curries, it seems the rest of London wasn’t quite ready, and the restaurant closed three years later.

A
s the British influence in India intensified during the Victoria era, so the interest in their cuisine grew, and while the Brits may not have been ready for a single-purpose curry house, they had developed a taste for these spicy dishes.  Piccalilli, which is considered an English classic and was first created during the nineteenth century, was an initial attempt at making authentic Indian pickle.
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The Spice Tin from Hari Ghotra www.harighotra.co.uk
It wasn’t until after the Second World War that the Brits became hooked on curry.  Bombed-out chip shops and cafes were snapped up by Indian sailors who arrived in the UK at the turn of the century, and authentic curry recipes were tweaked and adapted for a more British-friendly taste.  The locality of many of these shops meant they were perfectly situated to provide for the post-pub packs, and thus another great British tradition was born.

T
he pinnacle of the British curry revolution was in the 1960s; the arrival of thousands of Indian and Bangladeshi people into Britain, either to seek work or refuge, led to an unprecedented explosion of curry houses and restaurants, particularly in London, Birmingham, and Bradford.

A
lthough to the Brits the seemingly exotic tikka masala may have transported them to an exciting, foreign land, in truth there is not much Indian about tikka masala at all – nor many of the ‘classic’ curry dishes you can find on menus at almost all Indian restaurants.

T
he humble tikka masala can now be seen as one of the first examples of fusion food; while the Brits had developed a serious passion for all things spicy, they still enjoyed their meat with a bit of gravy.  In the 1970s, a Pakistani chef in Glasgow began giving his customers a large dollop of masala sauce with their meat to counteract the ‘dryness’ (so the legend goes) and the rest is curry history.

O
r is it?  Although the creation of the tikka masala can be seen as an early example of fusion cuisine, it could also be seen as nothing but a culinary demonstration of the British capacity ‘for reducing all foreign foods to their most unappetising and inedible forms’, as the author Lizzie Collingham observed in her book Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors.
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Chicken Tikka Masala from Hari Ghotra www.harighotra.co.uk
While this stance may be a little firm, it has a point; try locating a tikka masala overseas and the chances are you’ll come up short.  Indian food is some of the most diverse cuisine in the world and yet in Britain we often reduce it to a few favourites: the balti (created in Birmingham), rogan josh, vindaloo.

I
n view of the fact that India is approximately the size of Europe and is just as geographically varied, the fact that we remain ignorant about so much of their food seems like a colossal waste.

T
hankfully however, there seems to be a change in the air.  After years of being heralded as the nation’s favourite, the tikka masala was replaced by the jalfrezi in the hearts of British people in a 2011 poll.  Glossing over the small and insignificant detail that the jalfrezi may have also been created by a Brit, shunning the overly sweet and creamy curries in favour of a dish packed with fresh chillies and an authentic kick of spice is certainly a step in the right direction.


A
s further testament to the idea that Britons’ taste buds are evolving and we are becoming more adventurous, the same poll found that the second most popular curry was the madras, another hot dish containing large amounts of chilli.  The once-beloved tikka masala only made it into eighth place, and the mild, creamy korma only received two percent of the vote.

T
he fact that we are becoming more exploratory with Indian food has had a real impact on the dining scene in Britain.  London favourite Tayyabs was recently named as one of the capital’s best restaurant in a ‘Tastes of London’ shortlist, further reinforcing the notion that curry has become as synonymous with British cuisine as fish and chips or pie and mash.
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Two London restaurants (Tamarind and Zaika) have each received Michelin stars, supermarkets are selling previously little-known regional dishes such as the Goan Xacutti alongside the bhunas and baltis, and restaurants selling authentic Indian street food are taking off in the capital.

Since the initial ‘curry revolution’ of the 1960s, Indian food in Britain is turning another corner. After years of being happy with a tikka masala, a bhajik, and a pint, it seems that British consumers are finally ready to try something new. 

BRITISH CURRY EATING HABITS
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WRITER'S BIO:
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Ella Jameson is a freelance writer, blogger and contributor to many different websites, blogs, and magazines. After graduating from university with a degree in English Literature, Ella worked as an editor and copywriter for several years before becoming a freelance journalist. Her specialist subjects include food, travel, health and fitness, and the environment. Check her out at @JamesonElla, Google+ Ella Jameson, and about.me/JamesonElla

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EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH JAMES WHARTON (AUTHOR OF "OUT IN THE ARMY: MY LIFE AS A GAY SOLDIER")

5/6/2014

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Dear Anglophiles:  I must share with you my exclusive interview (below) with James Wharton, a former member of the British armed forces who came out as gay while serving his country, and offer you the scoop about his new, best-selling memoir, Out in the Army: My Life as a Gay Soldier. 

In a word, Wharton's book is brilliant.

So, one day, an email from James' publicist came across my desk, telling me about Out in the Army, and I thought, sure, I'll be happy to promote that--I've always been a strong advocate for LGBT rights.  But the thing was, I didn't want to take time to read the book.  I'm a busy person.  Very busy.  I thought I'd just offer you dear readers a blurb from the jacket cover and let you make your own decision. 
Then I read the first page of Out in the Army . . . then the second page . . . and the third . . . and before I knew it, I was fully engrossed in Mr. Wharton’s fabulous page-turner and could not put it down until finishing it.  Not only does Mr. Wharton have something to say, he says it exceedingly well.

So, who is James Wharton and what did he do?  If you follow the news, you probably saw him or heard of him when the US military, a couple years ago, repealed “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell"--for by that time, Wharton was a gay-poster-boy for the British Army, after appearing on the cover of Soldier, a British army publication.  Wharton, from North Wales, joined the British army in 2003 and become a member of the Household Cavalry, the regiment of horsemen that escorts the royal family on state occasions, and later he served in Iraq.  Most captivating about Wharton’s book, is its gut-wrenching, emotional honesty.  Wharton doesn’t mince words, use euphemisms, or skirt around details.  He’s brutally honest, and his story draws the reader into a world of sexual exploration, coming out, London gay-night-clubbing, and army bullying.  A particularly amazing account tells of Wharton, who served under Prince Harry, sharing a tank with him, and the prince’s intervention in a bullying incident that was spinning out of control.  The memoir also recounts two very important weddings: James’ own, to his husband Thom, and that of William and Kate's, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, an event James participated in as a member of the Mounted Cavalry.   If you care about LGBT rights or simply want a riveting read, I say run, don't walk, to buy this book!



INTERVIEW WITH JAMES WHARTON
(Author of Out in the Army: My Life as a Gay Soldier)
Zella: Greetings, James.  I'm Zella Watson, from Brooklyn, NY, publisher of the website Anglophiles United.  I just finished your book and was wowed by it!  Both your story and your writing are captivating.  Job well done!  When I completed the book, a few questions sprang to mind. . . .

James: Thanks for the kind words!

Zella: You left the military, hoping to help gay youth.  How is that work coming along?  Surely it’s a huge task!  Are you making headway?

James: I think I’m just fitting in to the greater effort, globally, improving the lives of young GLBT people. Like many others, the frequent news of teen suicides really affected me and I’m pleased I’ve been able to add to the effort in combatting the issue. It’s something we can all do, we just need to find a way we’re each comfortable in contributing to. I like to talk to classes of kids in schools, and write columns for magazines and newspapers. Some like to protest and express their support in other ways, which is fantastic! I think the It Gets Better campaign was a real game-changer in tackling this problem!

Zella: What advice do you offer young people who are considering coming out to their parents but are afraid to? 

James: It’s a bit of a cliche, but I really think the line ‘you are not alone’ is very relevant. There are millions of kids around the world all considering coming out and talking to their parents. There are safe places to access support, in the UK, there’s a youth site by Stonewall which offers real support; I would also recommend telling a third party who you trust, just incase further support is needed. Perhaps a close friend of teacher?

Zella: What advice do you give parents who receive news that their child is gay?  How can parents best show their support?

James: In an ideal world I’d tell them to grab their kid and give them the biggest hug in the world, as they’d have just done the bravest thing in their young lives. I think sometimes gay people forget just how difficult those two words actually are, but when we really try to remember, coming out is terrifying. There are, simply to young people who are coming out, support groups for moms and dads who need advice, and maybe support.

A huge mistake would be telling them you didn’t love them for being unique and beautiful.

Zella: Many claim that those who “protesteth too much” about homosexuality are, oftentimes, themselves gay.  Did you see this phenomenon often in the military?  (I would say that in the States, we’ve seen our fair share of politicians and ministers who fall into this camp!) 

James: You’re right, people do say this often and I can recount a few times when the sexuality of an assailant has certainly been pulled into question. ( I talk about his in my book when I’m horrifically beaten and hospitalised at the age of 18. I saw the guy in a gay nightclub some months after kissing a guy). We’ve also seen this recently with Cardinal Keith O’Brien in Scotland; he kicked up a massive homophobic fuss over gay marriage here last year, only to be outed as a bit of a dirty old man, accused of harassing young male priests for years. One does raise an eyebrow.

Zella: You concluded your book by saying that the British army has done a lot to help gay and bi-sexual soldiers, but it still has much work to do.  What about transsexuals?  Did you know any closeted trans-men or trans-women in the military?  Is it an issue at all?    

James: I know an out Transexual in the army, who I think has had an extremely positive few years since transitioning. My honest opinion is that I feel Trans equality is lacking behind gay equality by about ten years. Some feel the GLB community should separate themselves from trans people and issues, which I think is nonsense. We must do all we can to make trans peoples lives better… the answer is not to say ‘sort your own shit out!’ Imagine if straight allies, presidents and prime ministers included, said that to us gay folk. We’d be pretty upset about it!

Zella: When you hear about things such as the draconian, anti-gay laws enacted in Russia last year or about nations—particularly some African nations—where homosexuality may result in a death sentence, do you ever itch to work on the world stage as an activist?  (I think many would agree that you have the personality and leadership skills to perform such a task!)

James: I would love to do more for the rights of GLBT people in Russia and other places, and when I can, I do my bit. But to do things abroad, you need some backing, mostly financial, and I think it makes more sense to donate to the likes of GLLAD and Stonewall who are extremely established and filled to the brink with experts who can drive real change. I genuinely lose sleep thinking about our brothers and sisters in Russia. I was particular upset to read last week about the cancelling of a pride event in the Ukraine due to Russian influence in the area. Such a tragedy.

Zella: You’re a wonderful writer!  Growing up, did you know you had that in you? 

James: I have to admit, I’ve had a passion for writing since a very young age. I knew I’d write a book one day, just didn’t know what it would be about. My English teacher from school, now a good friend, always praised my writing in my teens. I thanked her in my book! I’m slowly working away at a gay themed novel, based in New York as it happens. But I can’t really say anymore at the moment.

Zella: I understand you’ve been on a cruise!  Care to reveal what ports of call you’ve visited?  (I trust you’ve had a marvelous time!)

James: I got back to the UK yesterday morning- and I’m sad to be home, as I’m sure you can imagine! We had a blast. We sailed out of Miami and enjoyed a 7 night western Caribbean cruise. We stopped at Cozumel, Mexico; Belize; Hondorous and Grand Cayman.We sailed with Carnival and I was delighted to see they had a gay and lesbian gathering twice daily at the cocktail bar on ship. There were dozens of gay couples also on-board and it was a real treat to make so many new friends from the US and Canada whilst on holiday. I’m keeping in touch with them and I think we might all cruise again together next year. Bravo Carnival Cruise Lines for thinking about us!

Zella: Thank you very much, James, for answering my questions.  I wish you continued, great success with Out in the Army!


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    Zella

    I am a writer, artist, and incurable Anglophile! Thank you for reading my blog, and please feel free to join my discussions about Britain.  I look forward to hearing your comments and stories!

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